Mazda Chassis Tuning Bedienungsanleitung

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This document is released into the public domain and may be reproduced and distributed in its entirety so long as all
credit to Jim Daniels remains. If you find this guide helpful please consider donating a small fee via the links located a
t
http://www.specmiata.com.
Setup Guide and Chassis Tuning Tips
(
simple version)
By Jim Daniels
As promised the following is a walk through of how I setup my SM with a list of tuning tips I
use at the track. Many have theories, thoughts and ingrained ideas on setup and tuning.
I’m not trying to change any of that, I’m simply providing you with what I use on this type of
racecar. I hope that you use this guide as a source to further your racing program and setup
abilities. I welcome any suggestions you have, send them to me at [email protected]
.
This guide will be placed in the FAQ section of the www.specmiata.com
web site.
Expect 6-8 hours the first time you do this yourself, sometimes longer depending on you
r
mechanical ability. This time estimate is AFTER you level your floor.
Tools and equipment needed to do setup at home:
• Level surface (absolutely level, use shims to achieve if needed)
• Scales, camber gauge, toe plates, string
• Normal tools and jack stands
• Maybe some 8’ sections of clear tube needed to level the workspace
Before you start, a few things need to be done to the car, a few assumptions have to be made
and a couple techniques explained.
1.) The sway bars need to be disconnected on one side (I like the left side).
2.) You need to find the center of the steering rack then lock down the column with a
pair of vice grips and a bungee cord. This would be a good time to adjust the
steering wheel adapter if it is off center from the rack’s center. I use my steering
wheel like a degree wheel to find the center. Then, I removed the hub and adjust
the splines until the “T” on my steering wheel is square.
3.) The tires need to be at “hot” pressures, 40 will do.
4.) The driver’s weight needs to be in the car at all times, I prefer a real person to sit
there the whole time. If not, try to divide up body weight for torso, legs etc…
5.) Do yourself a favor and make sure the suspension bolts, perch adjusters and
other hardware you will be adjusting are free, ready to adjust but not loose.
6.) In the rear sub-fame, driver’s side, just above the inboard lower bushing mounts
you will see some holes cut by the factory. These holes are on both sides of the
sub-frame again just up from those lower bushings. Find the two holes that are in
alignment, one for the front of the sub-frame and one for the rear. Install a 3-4” bolt,
the size of the hole, with a jam nut holding it in place. Have the bolts extent outward
(front to the front and rear to the rear). These bolts establish the centerline of the ca
r
and will be used to square the car up in later steps (see Picture 1).
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Inhaltsverzeichnis

Seite 1

This document is released into the public domain and may be reproduced and distributed in its entirety so long as all credit to Jim Daniels remains

Seite 2

7.) I make the assumption that no parts are bent and you have used your thumb to gettoe and camber where it looks ok. 2” of toe out or +3 camber o

Seite 3

Please Note: Steps #3 - #5 can be both time consuming and frustrating for the uninitiated. Iron Canyon Motorsports has recently released an ICM Alignm

Seite 4

Step #6 (Scaling) I assume you have been on the scales this whole time, the extra height helps for all the floor work you needed to do. Some

Seite 5

Make the adjustments in equal turns up and down (from whole turns to quarter turns). Thiswill decrease the CW with hardly any ride height change.

Seite 7

Picture 2

Seite 9

Picture 4

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